é um distrito de Kabukicho dentro de Shinjuku, um distrito especial de Tóquio, Japão. É composto por uma rede de seis vielas estreitas, conectadas por passagens ainda mais estreitas, largas o suficiente para a passagem de uma única pessoa.

A fantastic area to get a feel for this style of eating is Shinjuku’s Omoide Yokocho or Memory Lane, uma versão mais underground da Golden Gai. Beco icônico com uma série de barracas de comida que vendem pratos simples e bebidas alcoólicas. The narrow alleyways are lined with lanterns, bar stools and grills offering authentic local cuisine, and yakitori as the main event.

A couple of blocks away is the boozier version of Omoide Yokocho, in the famous Golden Gai. Golden Gai’s watering holes are found in small alleys, often only seating 8 or so people.

What exactly is Golden Gai?

The Golden Gai district is a rare find in Tokyo. A place that, through some combination of luck and stubbornness, hasn’t been bulldozed and redeveloped. A couple of blocks square, it's packed with tiny, slightly ramshackle but buzzing bars.

The number of punters who can squeeze into each establishment ranges from about five to thirty. Each bar has its own hook, whether outlandish decor (from troll toys to hospital-themed uniforms), a signature drink or the promise of free karaoke at all hours.

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Be bold when it comes to exploring Golden Gai's alleys © Silvan Reiser/Shutterstock

What’s the etiquette?

Most of the bars accept visitors now, but some still only welcome regular customers. Check to see if there’s a price list or anything in English posted out front and you'll be good. Alternatively, just walk in, smile politely and see what reaction you get; chances are that if it’s a regulars-only bar you’ll be told there’s no room (empty seats or not).

Most of the bars have a cover charge, though a small number are free to enter. Sheer physical proximity means you may end up making friends with your neighbour – it’s amazing how quickly the language barrier disappears after a glass or three of shōchū.

Talking of the language barrier, if you’re up to it then a bit of basic vocab will definitely be well-received. “O-susume” is “recommendation” – a surefire way to make a new friend. The simple but polite way to order is “[drink] o kudasai”. Finally, most vitally of all, be sure to make judicious use of “oishii” or “umai” (“delicious”) and, of course, “kanpai!” (“cheers!”).

Which bars are worth visiting?

If you’re nervous about accidentally wandering into a regulars-only bar, start at one of the better-known gaijin (foreigner) friendly establishments.

Arriving via Yasukuni-dōri, the first bar you’ll reach is Champion. It’s large and has no cover charge, but the karaoke might put you off your drinks. Another popular choice is the plush **Albatross, which** has a rooftop terrace with impressive views of Tokyo.

To really get a feel for Golden Gai, though, you need to head away from these larger bars and start peeking up staircases and through doorways to see what takes your fancy.

Zucca is a small, friendly bar with Halloween-themed decor (the name means pumpkin in Italian). The bar staff here not only greet most customers by name, but also know their usual drink, the state of their health, and myriad other personal details, presumably divulged after a few glasses.

Another standout is Blue Square, on the edges of Golden Gai up a staircase marked by a small blue sign in the shape of a circle. It’s tiny – four can sit at the bar – but it attracts some interesting characters. The bar owners had originally planned an S&M joint, hence the spiked and studded bras hanging on the wall, but couldn’t afford such specialised staff. They ended up with a regular bartender from Osaka! In classic outspoken Osakan style though, she says "Don't go asking me for a spanking, I'm definitely not paid enough for that!"

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